17th to 20th June

Tuesday 17 June

Today, we will follow the coast, down to Mazunte. It’s only some 70km, so we can relax a bit this morning. Thank you Jim for this great night among the humming birds!

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So here we are at 11h, leaving for Mazunte!. Big mistake! The weather is very hot now, at least 35ÂșC, with a striking Sun, but also it is relatively humid. The road is quite broad, with some traffic (although not much compared to Indonesia), totally straight, with some climbs. Cycling in these conditions is not really pleasant.

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Many times we have to stop, to take back our breath. As we arrive to Mazunte, only 10km left, guess what? Yep, it’s starting to rain. Again, just before we arrive. Once again, we dress up as rain fighters. In Mazunte, we’ll sleep at the Palapa Mazunte. A guy in the road recommended us this place: it’s cheap, on the seaside, and very nice. We enjoy the beach in the sunset, jumping in the big waves.

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Wednesday 18 June

We get up at 6h today, it’s still night outside. We learnt the lesson of yesterday, we have to start early. We soon stop in a small restaurant to have breakfast! unfortunately, as we are the first clients of the day, the service is very slow (but at least the food and the view are not bad…).

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Finally, we start pedalling it’s already 8h30, and it is very hot. The road is like Russian mountains, climbing 100m high, then going down in a few curves! The heat kills us (at least half of the team, the Viking-blood one). Tomorrow, we’ll get up at 4h, we’ll see who will win between the heat and us!

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We had planned to arrive tomorrow night in Salina Cruz, some 200km further, but it won’t be possible. So we’ll split it in three stages, and today, we’ll only do some 60km, till Huatulco (well, the village is called Crucecita, but this whole bay is called and known as Huatulco). The last 10km before the village are on a new road, very black, with some walls of forest on both side. With the Sun of the beginning of the afternoon, the absence of wind, it feels like being in an oven. When we arrive in Huatulco, we lose a lot of time looking for cheap accommodation. Here, it’s a city for tourists, quite opulent North American tourists. The roads are wide, with luxuous hotels on both side, there are palmtrees well maintained in the middle of the road! well you feel like in an American movie, with all the stereotypes.

So we decide to go back in the inside, to the village of Crucecita. Here, there are less tourists, more local people, and cheaper accommodation. But still quite expensive compared to what we are used to pay. We find a small hotel, but so far from the beach, and we are so tired that we won’t have the courage to go to the sea this afternoon.

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Thursday 19 June

Yesterday, get suffered a lot from the heat. So today, we’ll get up even earlier, at 5h. We get ready quite fast, and can leave as the sky starts to become lighter. Like this, we can cover a great distance before 8 or 9, when it starts to be too hot. Unfortunately, the road does not follow strictly the coast, and most of the time, we cannot see the sea. No need to say that there are numerous small climbs. We see many caterpillars on the way…

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We arrive around 15h at the small village of Zaachila. We contacted a Mexican, through warmshowers, who lives here. Well, he lives in fact in Mexico City, but his mother can host us! we meet also his three little children. In the afternoon, we rest and play with Jacinto, the younger child, who does not have school in the afternoons. The two other children, Kadeli and Luis Angel are also very active.

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When the night comes, we are surprised to see so many fireflies in the fiels. Litteraly, hundreds of them blink their greenish tone, all around us. We sleep in a tent tonight, under a porch. Despite the heat outside, and after a first period of sweating much, we fall asleep.

Friday 20 June

Seventh day in a row we cycle, and finally, we will arrive to our destination in Oaxaca: Salina Cruz. Again, we get up at 5h, to race with the Sun. Today is a rather short stage, less than 60km. We make more or less fortunate encounters on the road.

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We spend the morning on the bike enjoying the landscape. A green dense forest all around the road, and sometimes, the sea appears, with a so tempting blue tone, and the white beaches where the waves come to die.

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So we arrive at noon in Salina Cruz, a rather big town. There is a big refinery in the city, probably providing job to most of the people here. We find a cheap hotel in the centre of the city, and go to eat (enjoying the ease with which France wins against Switzerland). Later on, we take a collective taxi to go to the closest beach. A collective taxi is halfway between a taxi and a bus: the collective taxi has a fixed route, it starts from its initial point when it has at least 5 passengers (we were 6 pax + the driver, but don’t worry there is space on the roof and in the trunk) so we may have to wait 5-10min, prices are much lower than a normal taxi. The water temperature is absolutely lovely, it does not cost anything to enter inside.

Here comes the video. Switch on the fan!